Glossary

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Button twist:

Yarn used to make buttonholes

 

Cabbage:

Term for material left over from astute cutting of a garment that is traditionally retained by the cutter for his own use

 

 

Canvases:

The inner material used in a garment to give it shape. Canvasses include linen, horsehair, hemps, jutes, meltons and many more

 

 

Cashmere:

Luxurious fibre from the undercoat or under layer of the Asiatic Falconeri goat

 

 

Cavalry Twill:

A firm warp faced twill, originally used for heavy weight fabrics but now used for a range of fabrics. Used for items such as raincoats

 

 

Chambray:

A plain weave lightweight cotton fabric primarily used for shirts

 

 

Classic collar:

Most popular style of shirt collar where the wings are cut straight and point downward

 

 

Cloth:

A general term applied to fabrics

 

 

Coat maker:

Tailor who specialises in making jackets

 

 

Cummerbund:

A broad waist sash, usually pleated, which is often worn with black tie

 

 

Cut-away collar:

Style of shirt collar that is more cutaway towards the shoulder- the degree varies. Also referred to as Windsor collar

 

 

Dinner suit:

Worn for semi-formal evening occasions including weddings (black tie), usually black with jacket featuring silk facings over collar and lapels

 

 

Dolly:

Fabric covered wooden structure used in tailoring as base for pressing

 

 

Double cuff:

See French cuff

 

 

Drape:

The way a fabric hangs in folds

 

 

Dye:

The use of a substance to add colour to fabrics or fibres

 

 

Dyeing:

The process of applying colour to a textile product by soaking it in a coloured solution

 

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

 

Fabric:

Yarns or fibres coming together in long lengths

 

 

Fibres:

Fine hair like structures, which can be natural or synthetic or regenerated, long (filament) or short (staple)

 

 

Flannel:

Derived from the Welsh name for wool, flannel is made from woollen yarn that is slightly twisted in the spinning and of open texture

 

 

Floating:

Misnomer used by the ready to wear industry to imply a certain canvas quality of make in their jacket construction

 

 

Four cord:

Term commonly used in the tailoring trade to describe four strands of thread that are twisted together and sealed with beeswax for sewing on buttons. Linen thread is sometimes used as a substitute

 

 

Foreman:

Tailor who is in charge of production in a tailoring workshop

 

 

Fusing:

Use of chemicals and heat to weld the interlinings to the outer fabric of a garment, as distinct from the superior methodology of stitching used by bespoke tailors

 

 

French cuff:

Style of cuff on a dress or formal shirt, which is folded back and then closed with cufflinks rather than buttons. Also known as double cuffs

 

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes

 

Button:

buttonholes