Custom Leather

Custom Leather

 

A leather jacket is one of those wardrobe pieces that, although you might not wear every day, should fit as well as your custom clothing. And if you crave that same versatility in style, colors and details that have made your custom clothing inherently your own, you will love our new Davide Cotugno line of custom leathers.

We meticulously walk you through all the stages of the design process to style and create a garment that fits you amazingly. Realized from your pattern that we keep on file, you now have the choice of 75 skin colors to choose in a multitude of styles from simple blazers to heavier outerwear.

Impeccably tailored from rich Italian leather, each garment is hand sewn to last for decades and will improve and grow softer with age. As with all of our hand sewn custom garments, each custom leather garment molds to your individual body shape over time for an amazing fit.

Today the variety of ready to wear leather garments is more about the designer name than actual fit and quality of leather. For many people finding the right size, fit and style is so difficult that our custom options make complete sense especially if we are making custom clothing for you already.

The process begins with a personal consultation to determine your vision and we can expertly guide you through the rest of the decisions such as choice of leathers, linings and buttons. If you prefer us to style it for you, not a problem.  Stop in or give us a call to get the process started.

 

 

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Selecting a Custom Clothier: What to look for and what to ask

Selecting a Custom Clothier: What to look for & what to ask

Working with a custom clothier is like building a relationship. It’s okay to ask questions to be sure you will be happy with the outcome. Professional custom clothiers will not be offended if you ask:

  • Who trained you for custom fitting?
  • Are you trained to correctly measure and fit me?
  • How long have you been doing this?
  • Do you have references?

 

Being able to measure someone does not necessarily translate into a great fitting garment. Your tailor needs to have a trained eye that can spot those idiosyncrasies in your body that brought you to custom clothing in the first place. He will study your anatomy first and visually spot issues even before laying a measuring tape on you.

Visual cues such as:

  • Does your jacket gap at the back of the neck?
  • Is your shirt too full in the waist?
  • Do you have a muscular, head forward or military posture?
  • Are your shoulders sloped evenly?
  • Do you wear your pants low or high on the waist?

 

All this information dramatically changes the way your clothing fits. He understands that no one’s body is created the same and that a “canned” style does not work for everyone. That’s why tailors are in business.

Start your custom suit journey with Davide Cotugno Executive Tailors. We accept in store, on site or private after hour appointments. Learn more at davidcotugno.com or contact us for additional questions or to schedule an appointment.

 

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What to Know And Look for When Buying Custom Suits

What to Know And Look for When Buying Custom Suits

Made to measure or ready to wear clothing does not offer the same level of expert fit and attention to detail as having a custom suit or bespoke item of clothing made for your specific measurements.

There are key elements that set a bespoke or custom suit apart from made to measure or ready to wear garments. Here’s what to ask and look for:

 

Are your suits fused (glued)?

FUSED FRONTS

Eighty per cent of ready to wear suits, jackets, topcoats, overcoats and outerwear garments are fused, meaning that the body of the garment (between the front fabric and the interior lining) is constructed using a membrane that is heat bonded to the actual fabric to give it body and shaping. Eventually over time, this membrane separates from the fabric during the dry cleaning process and causes a bubbling effect on the front of the jacket that cannot be fixed.

 

 

 

 

FLOATING CANVAS

Better quality suits, jackets, topcoats, overcoats and outerwear are constructed using a canvas that is sewn into the garment by hand and literally “floats” within the jacket (floating canvas). This gives it better shaping and longevity and the ability to actually conform to your body over time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you make a pattern for me?

Making a paper pattern is the next step in the creation of your custom made suit, shirt, pants, tuxedo, blazer or topcoat. Your tailor will transfer your measurements to a paper pattern including posture, shoulder slope, style details and his professional tweaks on how that garment should fit your body. This becomes a flat, paper replica of your body shape that will be laid onto the fabric you chose ready for the cutting room.

Once cut, the individual cloth parts are meticulously sewn together to create your custom made garment. This process is called a “fitting.” His experienced eye will spot any minor changes that should be made before you take delivery of the finished article of custom clothing. These changes will be noted on your pattern for future custom orders, thus making the experience even easier.

 

 

Can I have a raw try on?

In cases where a new client is extremely difficult to fit or orders multiple garments on his first order, we invariably make him a “raw try on” first. Using his individual paper pattern that we just created, we sew together a partially made suit, jacket, pant or topcoat using a scrap piece of fabric.

This is truly “raw”, meaning that there is no lining, buttons, belt loops or other finishing details. We then can have a fitting using this raw try on and make any changes to the pattern before actually cutting the fabrics that he initially chose.

This ensures that the client visually can see the finished fit ahead of time and be assured that the final fit will be perfect.

In the case of custom shirts we will make one sample shirt first before cutting and finishing the rest of the order. Although this is an added expense, it is well worth it in the long run.

 

 

 

Can I have a choice of style, interior lining and buttons?

Any custom suit, jacket or custom garment in general will have multiple choices for personal details such as buttons, lining colors, style and even the color of stitching. Countless options that will make your finished item truly unique and not cookie cutter like many others.

Ready to wear and made to measure clothing give you a very limited choice.
 
 
 
 

How many fittings will I have?

Most times one fitting is adequate if the tailor measured correctly. If he truly asked you questions and listened to how you like to wear your clothing during the initial visit (trim, traditional, classic, etc.) then you should be very near the mark. Sleeve and pant lengths are pretty common alterations mainly because it’s your own personal preference.
 

Do you have an in-house tailor?

This is extremely important – especially if you are dealing with a clothier who has very little experience in the custom clothing business or comes to your office. Most of these custom clothiers have very limited knowledge about how a garment should be altered and an even harder time expressing to the tailor what needs to be done. The tailors they use for alterations are typically part time who are used to working on ready to wear clothing, so quality control is very sporadic. Custom clothing is a completely different ball game than ready to wear.
 

If I lose a significant amount of weight (20lb or more) can your tailor alter it?

Like any craftsman, there are great tailors and there are not so great tailors. There is always a correct way and an easy way to alter clothing and most take the easy way because they do not want or do not know how to.

THE CORRECT WAY is to open up the sides of the jacket from the bottom all the way up to the top shoulder seam and in some cases, remove the sleeves. This way the extra fabric can be taken in evenly all the way down. The trousers are opened up through the waist, seat and crotch seams (sometimes completely to the knee) and taken in evenly.
 
THE EASY WAY is to open up the sides up to the armpits and take it in from there. Additionally, open up the seam running up the center of the back to take it in. This is always disastrous because the shoulders will still be big and now the whole jacket is distorted.

Trousers are taken in only on the back seat seam which pulls the side pockets towards the back and causes the rear pockets to almost meet in the middle.

Good tailors will opt for the correct way because its cleaner, it is correct and the garment can be re-altered again should the client put the weight back on.

Understanding the steps and reasons behind creating a truly custom suit, shirt or other garment ensures your satisfaction with the final outcome.

Start your custom suit journey with Davide Cotugno Executive Tailors. We accept in store, on site or private after hour appointments. Contact us.

Suited for Men Event 2017

 

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Suited for Men Event

Turn your new or gently-worn suit into a new beginning for someone in our community.

 

First impressions can be the difference in securing gainful employment. But for many low-income men, affording the necessary clothing to project a professional business image is out of reach.

Davide Cotugno Executive Tailors will once again partner with Passages, Inc. for their Suited for Men program. Among its services, Passages provides assessment of job skills with a focus on workforce development providing life skills development, computer assisted training, job counseling and referrals.

The Suited for Men program provides clean, contemporary, interview-appropriate clothing to men of all ages and backgrounds after they have completed job training programs. Since 2001 the Suited for Men program has provided more than 4,000 underserved men in the local community with interview-appropriate clothing.

From November 15 – January 1, 2018, bring your new or gently used suit to
Davide Cotugno Executive Tailors. In return for your donation, we will offer:

$200 Off a NEW Suit or Overcoat when you donate a Suit or Overcoat

$100 Off a NEW Suit, Sport Coat or Overcoat by donating a Sport Coat

$50 OFF a NEW Pant, Sport Coat, Suit or Overcoat by donating a pair of Pants

To protect your identity, we meticulously inspect each garment and remove client name labels before clearing them for donation. From there, items are donated, laundered and added to the Suited for Men headquarters on Perkins Avenue in downtown Cleveland.

To learn more about Passages, Inc., a faith-based, non-profit community organization dedicated to enriching the qualify of life for children, fathers and mothers, visit passages-oh.org.

To learn more about this in-store event, call us at 440-526-8860 or contact us.

The Elements of Style

 

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THE ELEMENTS OF STYLE

Off-the-Rack, Made-to-Order and Custom Clothing:

The Differences Every Man Should Know

 

Misconceptions about custom clothing are gaining traction, and there’s a reason: retailers want their customers to believe they’re getting more than they bargained for.

The truth is that real custom clothing far exceeds lookalikes in quality, style and most importantly, value. A custom-made suit that can cost as little as $1,200 will outlast its off-the-rack or made-to-measure counterpart by a factor of three and can even be refreshed after a few years the same way a good pair of shoes are fitted with new soles.

Better department stores now push “custom,” “made-to-order” and “made-to-measure” suits, pants and sport coats. These misrepresented services provides little more than the option to choose a factory-made garment in the fabric of your choosing.

At department stores minor adjustments are included, such as sleeves and side seams, but the product is essentially off-the-rack quality with components that are glued (or fused) together. Retailers push this service hard because it reduces inventory and the need to discount slow-moving items gathering dust in the store.

A true custom suit, however, begins with about 32 separate measurements that are turned into a paper pattern and kept on file for future orders. A partially fitted garment, called a “basted try-on,” may also be used to guide a perfect fit. The customer then chooses from a wide variety of style elements, such as fabric, lapels, buttons, lining and personal overall fit.

Master tailors use the paper pattern to hand cut and sew each garment. Everything is stitched. Nothing is glued, which is a common low-quality, mass-production process that causes suits to deteriorate very quickly.

The painstaking task of hand sewing creates an incredibly soft, supple garment with a very sturdy finish that stands up to wear and tear for a lifetime. After a few years, a good custom tailor can even freshen the look and make adjustments for weight or style changes.

New customers are often surprised that a custom garment is similarly priced to an off-the-rack or made-to-order item. But the quality is unparalleled, and custom customers rarely return to the department stores for mass produced impostors.

Off the Rack
A mass-produced garment that is factory made and glued (fused) in a general size, with minimal alterations by a tailor.

Made-to-Measure or Made-To-Order
A ready-to-wear stock garment with fabric options that are styled and altered in a factory, using mass-production methods, such as glue.

Custom Made
A garment that is completely hand or machine sewn by a master tailor with dozens of measurements and a wide choice of styles and fabric options. Mass-produced production methods, such as gluing, are never used.

 

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So What Is A Trunk Show?

 

SO WHAT IS A TRUNK SHOW?

TRUNK SHOW IMG

In the early 1800’s traveling salesmen would journey from place to place with their steamer trunks filled with wares. All the latest exciting fabrics and styles would be revealed to a select audience. Retail space was often limited so trunk shows would become the must-see event whenever they rolled into town.

The Trunk Show ‘tradition’ continues today, but instead of large trunks, exclusive clothiers hand pick a collection of fabrics that will make up their inspirations for that season and invite a select group of their clients to preview and place orders.  

We hope to see you at our event and meet our fabric guru, Scabal representative, Jon Hapanowicz.

 

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SUITED FOR MEN DONATION UPDATE

 SUITED FOR MEN DONATION UPDATE

A big “THANK YOU” to everyone who participated in the Suited For Men Donation Program which ended December 31st

 This record breaking event surpassed all of our past years with an astounding 147 items donated! 

This collection of gently worn clothing was delivered recently to SFM headquarters on Perkins Avenue in downtown Cleveland and placed in the capable hands of Malik, Chuck and Brandon who tirelessly run the program. Suited For Men is affiliated with Passages, Inc. which provides assessment of job skills with a focus on workforce development providing life skills development, computer assisted training, job counseling and referrals. The agency provides clean, contemporary, interview-appropriate clothing to men of all ages and backgrounds, after they have completed job-training programs.  The primary program goal is to outfit gentlemen in need of appropriate attire so they can walk into a job interview with additional self-confidence and self-esteem. If you would like more information about Suited for Men or Passages, go to www.passages-oh.org

 

Malik at the Suited For Men showroom, Cleveland

Malik at the Suited For Men showroom, Cleveland

 

HOW DO WE PROCESS DONATIONS

 To protect your identity, we meticulously inspect each garment and remove client name labels before clearing them for donation.

  

 

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Men of the Cloth

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Men of the Cloth-Cleveland Premiere

Directed by Vicki Vasilopoulos

Cleveland Museum of Art, 11150 East Blvd., Cleveland

Friday, November 13, 6:45pm

 

Special introduction and Q & A session by NOIA member and custom tailor Davide Cotugno.

 

“I have followed Vicki’s documentary from its inception, not only because it is about my profession, but because it is the life story of many of those talented craftsmen like my father who apprenticed to be a tailor at the tender age of eight. It is especially relevant to our Italian-American roots as we trace the journey our forefathers made in their own chosen professions.

 

“Men of the Cloth” is an inspiring, critically acclaimed portrait of three Italian master tailors who confront the decline of the tailoring apprentice system as they navigate their challenging roles in the twilight of their careers.  These artisans cherish their interactions with their clients. And as they go about their daily tasks, they share observations that are, by turns, nostalgic, poignant and humorous.

 

The film unravels the mystery of their artistry and reveals how their passionate devotion to their Old World craft is akin to a religion. Filmed over eleven years, it also reflects the recent resurgence of custom clothing as an artisanal craft in sharp contrast to corporate mass produced clothing.”  

 

Davide Cotugno

President, Davide Cotugno Executive Tailors

Wednesday, November 18, 6:45 pm

Special introduction by filmmaker Vicki Vasilopoulos (via Skype)

Tickets $9; CMA members, seniors 65 & over, and students $7.

Advance tickets at www.clevelandart.org/film

 

The film received grants from the National Italian American Foundation and the William B. Dietrich Foundation. Additionally, much of the funding has come from the crowdfunding platforms Kickstarter and IndieGoGo.

 

MEN OF THE CLOTH web site and trailer: https://www.MenoftheClothFilm.com/

MEN OF THE CLOTH Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/MenOfTheClothFilm

USA/Italy, 2013, color, Blu-ray, 96 min

 

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